Johannesburg’s oldest bar lives on

It is a Friday night at The Radium Beer Hall in Johannesburg, one of the most renowned and oldest operating watering holes in South Africa.

Loyal patrons are enjoying a local jazz band performing on the iconic stage, which sports framed witty newspaper headlines from decades past.

The atmosphere is friendly, the kitchen is pumping, and the drinks are flowing in one of South Africa’s most iconic bars.

Although not as busy as it was in its prime, “there is honestly no place like this,” said Lina Cabeleira, owner of the oldest running bar in Joburg.

She is the widow of the late Manny Cabeleira, the beloved captain of the ship who bought The Radium in the 80s and propelled it to new heights.

At the tail end of 2024, headlines were abuzz that The Radium was going under the hammer, which stopped many from visiting the bar as they thought the shutters were closed for good.

However, this is not the case and the Cabeleiras want the public to know that ownership and running of the beloved bar remains the same.

Often referred to as “the last surviving decent watering hole in Louis Botha Avenue,” the doors remain open for business, as it has been for nearly a century.

The Radium Beer Hall has a rich history and has cemented itself as an iconic spot in Johannesburg. It was started in 1929 as The Radium Tearoom, built by the Khalil family from Lebanon.

The genteel tea drinking disguised the shebeening from the back of The Radium, where beer was sold to black people, to whom it was prohibited.

In 1942, a wine and malt licence was obtained, and the Radium Tearoom became The Radium Beer Hall, a men-only bar.

New owner Joe Barbarovich installed the old teak bar, which was rescued from the demolished Ferreirastown Hotel.

It is believed that during the 1913 strike, trade unionist Mary Fitzgerald delivered her speech to striking miners standing on its scarred surface.

In 1986, Cabeleria bought the Radium, added a restaurant and welcomed previously barred black and female customers.

Known for his vibrant personality and uncanny knack for marketing, he set out to transform the neighbourhood pub into a globally renowned hotspot.

Manny frequently made headlines, with a memorable “beer carnival” and a mock funeral, humorously stopping the traffic on Louis Botha.

Manny magic

One of the most significant changes Manny implemented when he bought it was the introduction of live music and a restaurant, providing a vibey atmosphere while serving affordable yet delicious food.

“It was plainly just a bar before,” Lina recalls, noting the quirky detail of a former fish pond, “which the fish died because people used to urinate in it”.

Manny created a stage not long before the venue pulsed with live music four nights a week.

“People would move their tables and chairs and make space for a dancing floor. It was great,” Lina reminisces.

With its unmistakable charm, outstanding cuisine, dynamic music, and Cabeleira’s irresistible charisma, the spot became a go-to destination for celebrities and high-profile guests craving a true Joburg experience.

“We’ve had all of these most elite people in here. We’ve had Mbeki here with his wife. We’ve had Zuma, Ramaphosa, and even actors like Brad Pitt. There’s been a lot of icons here,” said Lina.

“Brad Pitt, I must tell you, was actually phenomenal,” Lina recounts, describing a night when “the place was really pumping and going wild” and Pitt “just took it all in his own steam,” signing autographs for eager fans.

The bar’s fame even earned recognition as a cultural landmark, frequently highlighted in international travel guides.

When asked why he did not franchise his successful formula, Manny had previously said: “There’s only one of me, China — and I can’t franchise myself into pieces.”

Stuart Karovsky, a long-time patron of the bar, said that “it has always been a great place to meet with friends.”

“It always stayed true to offering reasonably priced drinks, as well as good quality and equally reasonably priced, wholesome meals.”

“Manny was always keen to engage with people in the bar, and that was always a lot of fun,” added Karovsky.

The Radium of today

Manny passed away in 2021, just shy of celebrating 40 years heading the bar, a feat Lina wishes he could have seen. 

Now at the helm, Lina wants to make sure that The Radium lives on. “My goal is to make Manny proud. I’m not doing it to be rich. I want to carry on this great legacy,” said Lina.

“If I can manage, I will hold on to it. And we’ll reach the 100-year mark,” she added.

Despite its rich history and cultural significance, The Radium has faced its share of challenges, particularly in recent times.

The economic downturn and the COVID-19 pandemic have taken a toll. “When COVID hit us, it obviously hit a lot of people. It did hit us as well, big time,” said Lina.

On top of this, Manny’s passing in 2021 left an indelible mark as his heart and soul was poured into the place.

Yet, through it all, she has remained dedicated to keeping the establishment alive, even “chewing into my own sort of financial status”.

Lina attributes the establishment’s longevity to several factors.

“I think the food is one of them. The food is really great, with reasonable pricing,” said Lina.

“I’m not sort of gunning to become rich or make a killing. I’m keeping it as low as I possibly can to bring the feet”.

Lina also describes it as a community-centric environment where “whoever’s here, we all meet one another, and we all sort of get to know one another”.

She notes that “everybody knows everybody. It’s crazy”. There is a sense of familiarity, “brother, sister, mother, father, family. People will likely always see a friendly face, a familiar face.”

Additionally, Lina said that “the staff have been phenomenal right through the bad times, through COVID. They’ve stuck by me. They’ve stayed with me”.

Above all has been the loyalty of the patrons.

“I must say that for everyone who keeps coming here and has been so loyal to the Radium. I thank them from the bottom of my heart. Because they’ve been coming here religiously.”

Cabeleira reassures patrons that despite neighbourhood changes, she believes The Radium remains a safe and inclusive space.

Lina invites new visitors to enjoy its charm, affordable prices, and vibrant atmosphere while encouraging past patrons to embrace the present and return.

Ultimately, she wants people to know that the doors are still open, that they will see a friendly face, and have a good time.

“I have a lot of very, very good memories at the Radium Beer Hall, spending time with friends there,” said Karovsky.

“There is a constant flow of live entertainment over the weekends and even on some weeknights, and a good showing of local South African music talent.

“We’re all hoping and pulling that it can reach that 100-year milestone,” he added.

A Friday night at The Radium Beer Hall