From a wildly popular Johannesburg roadhouse to a dilapidated building

The Doll House Roadhouse in Johannesburg has been a cultural touchstone, a meeting place, and a repository of countless memories for generations. Today, it is a dilapidated building.

Formerly located on the old road connecting Johannesburg and Pretoria, Louis Botha Avenue, the iconic establishment became an integral part of the city’s identity since its inception in 1936.

The story of the iconic business traces back to American immigrants who brought the business model and design from Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Roadhouses, like the Doll House, emerged in the 1930s as commercial establishments catering to travellers along main roads.

The 1930s was the ideal time to capitalise, as Johannesburg, as a growing city, was captivated by American culture.

Symbols of American progress, like Art Deco skyscrapers, cinemas, traffic lights, and neon signs, were shaping the city’s urban landscape.

The Doll House, Johannesburg’s oldest roadhouse, quickly became a beloved symbol of the city and a popular place to visit.

It was a hangout for patrons that offered a blend of nostalgia, a vibrant social atmosphere, unique culinary offerings, and historical significance.

It was so successful that the business model was replicated in other locations in South Africa through the Doll House brand.

Renowned photographer Dale Yudelman described the Doll House in Johannesburg as the “Facebook” of its time as it was a popular meeting place for socialising, catching up, and the added bonus of a double-thick malted milkshake.

However, the Doll House faded into memory, leaving behind a legacy of nostalgia and stories from patrons and workers alike.

“No hooting, please flick lights”

Former frequent patron Max Meurs said that growing up in Hillbrow and Berea, there were few spots quite like Doll House.

“It was lekker to go there on the weekend with your family, or your mates, sit in your car, listen to music, chill and have good food,” he said.

Writer and cartoonist Carlos Amato noted that one of the key factors of the Doll House’s appeal was its nostalgic charm.

For those who visited in the ’70s, the Doll House represented the glamour of the ’50s, while in the ’90s, it symbolised the essence of the ’70s.

This nostalgia evoked a longing for the “American idea of civilization,” where luxury could be enjoyed from the comfort of one’s car, creating a sense of timeless allure.

It was a popular spot to meet potential boyfriends and girlfriends. It was known for its fierce fights, which if you were not in them, added an element of excitement to the otherwise family-friendly environment.

The Doll House was a key stop for Johannesburg clubgoers heading home from Hillbrow and Yeoville after an evening out.

“Of course after partying in Hillbrow and Yeoville, it was the place to go. Their food was unreal. The blondie, in particular, was proper,” said Meurs.

It also held a special place for the local Reform Jewish community, whose Temple Shalom stood next door.

Lucky Muleya, who managed the Doll House and worked there for over 25 years, recalled with The Sunday Times how “During Yom Kippur, some Jewish kids would come and hide, and order from behind the wall, where they can’t be seen.”

“We’d ask them, ‘Aren’t you supposed to be fasting?’ And they’d say, ‘Aaaah, %#@k that! I’m hungry. I want my chicken mayo, bra!” Muleya said.

The menu at The Doll House was another draw. Regulars recall quirky items like bright double thick pink milkshakes, “chicken in a basket,” the iconic Dagwood, and renowned slap chips.

Many fondly recall the excitement of sitting with a tray on the car window, ordering bright pink double thick milkshakes, and savoring the food.

Pamela Laxon, whose grandparents were integral in starting and running the roadhouse in South Africa, recalls that her mother even invented the famous “toasted pizza.” The family eventually disinvested in 1987 and new ownership took over.

The Doll House’s decline

Over time, as the surrounding area deteriorated, the Doll House fell into disrepair, and what was once a vibrant hangout became a shadow of its former self.

Business Day quoted a spokesperson hoping to save the heritage building as saying, “Before the days of online entertainment, fast-food options on every corner and everyone owning a car, the Doll House was a well-known social outing option. It’s a heritage building.”

However, the Doll House was never declared a heritage site and was therefore vulnerable to deterioration and losing its value.

Developers acquired the property, promising to preserve its iconic name and neon facade within their plans for a mixed-use development along the Rea Vaya bus route. However, this never came to fruition.

On 31 August 2017, The Doll House’s neon lights flickered for the last time, marking the end of an 81-year chapter in Johannesburg’s history.

A drive down Louis Botha now shows the remanence of a once bustling social hub, with dilapidated buildings, overgrown vegetation and vandalism.

Despite the deterioration, the Doll House lives on in the hearts and minds of those who experienced its unique charm.

It remains a symbol of a bygone era, a reminder of simpler times, and a testament to the power of a place to bring people together.